When it comes to shaping brows, forget trends. Instead, let your bone structure guide you, says Anastasia Soare, the founder of Anastasia Beverly Hills, who tends to the brows of Cindy Crawford and Victoria Beckham. To find the shape that best suits you, follow Soare’s Golden Ratio technique. Hold a makeup pencil against your nostril and point it straight up: that’s where your brows should start. Find the end point by moving the pencil so it lines up with your nose and iris. To define this point, take out a few hairs beneath it, but work slowly so you don’t overdo it.

Do This: Forget the rule that says you can’t tweeze above your brows. If a hair is getting in the way of your best shape, get rid of it. Just be sure to fill your brows first to ensure the strays fall outside the lines.

While you’re waiting for your brows to grow out, put down your tweezers and pick up some makeup. Powders and pencils are great for sparse patches and definition. To apply colour and get a natural finish, use short angled strokes in the direction of hair growth and always stay within your natural brow line. Then blend colour with a brush for a soft, seamless finish. If you’re feeling a little impatient (brow hairs can take up to a year to grow bak), a professional tint can fill the holes while you wait. To clean up any mistakes, erase strays and accent your arch, blend a little concealer or highlighter along the lower edge of your brow.

Volume isn’t usually a concept we equate with brows, but according to experts it’s the secret to achieving a softer, more flattering shape. As a first step, always brush brows up and out with a spoolie before filling. “This instantly makes them appear thicker and lifts the eye area,” says Sydney brow and lash expert Amy Jean. Once gaps are filled, a brow gel will capture fine hairs and add natural-looking texture. To define darker brows, Jean suggests using a brow gel one or two shades lighter than your natural colour for a three-dimensional finish.

Should you laminate your brows? Like a Brazilian blowout for brows, “lamination is suited for anyone with medium-to-full natural brows, and can smooth coarse hair and train rogue brows into place,” says Amy Jean. In the treatment, a brow-specific keratin formula is used to chemically straighten hairs that have been combed into position. Afterwards, they remain in place for up to eight weeks, making your morning routine that much easier. At Browhaus, a brow lamination session for a first-timer is $48.

After years of helping clients with over-plucked or sparse brows, Amy Jean has formulated a growth-stimulating overnight mask to speed up the process. Simply brush the formula, which has French rosemary and castor oil, through clean brows to nourish hairs and prevent fall out.

Text: Bauer Syndication

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