If you’re noticing fine lines when you look in your review mirror, the issue could be dehydration. “With age, hyaluronic acid decreases and that causes dehydration, fines lines, lack of plumpness,” says Jonathan Baughman-Marc, a pharmacist working in product development at Filorga. “Hyaluronic acid is a key element of the skin structure and can retain 1000 times its weight in water [so] bringing hyaluronic acid to the skin will bring back optimal hydration and fight against signs of ageing.”

What you also want to do is add density. You can do this with ingredients such as peptides vitamins, amino acids, co-enzymes, minerals and antioxidants. “They activate cellular mechanisms and fight signs of ageing by increasing collagen and elastin and re-densifying the skin,” says Baughman-Marc.

Try:

• Filorga Time-Filler Multi-Correction Wrinkles Night Cream ($92). Chock-full of hyaluronic acid and peptides to activate cellular mechanisms, this cream aims to halve the appearance of wrinkles in tow months.
• Payot Roselift Collagène Nuit ($159). Dosed with peony and peptides, this night cream helps densify, firm and boost collagen production to help to ward off lines.

If you think you’re the only one dealing with congested skin past puberty, think again. About 45 per cent of women aged 20 to 45 are affected by acne. “It can either start in adolescence and continue on, or it starts for the first time in adulthood,” says Janis McNicholas, training manager at Avène. Adult acne usually forms around the jawline and the chin, “often due to oil glands being very sensitive to the body’s hormones —and sufferers tend to have drier skin”.

Getting rid of the dirt and extra oils is important, but don’t overdo it. “Over-washing your face can strip away the oil your skin needs to stay balanced,” says McNicholas, so aim for a gentle cleanser.

Skin with adult acne can be dry, so keeping it hydrated is key. “Look for products with retinaldehyde, a pro-vitamin A,” says McNicholas. “It helps to unblock pores, reduce residual marks and provides added anti-ageing benefits.” 

Try these to clear out your skin:

• Avène A-Oxitive Night Peeling Cream For Sensitive Skin ($79.90). Pro-vitamin A and vitamin E work to refine, smooth and brighten pores and post-spot pigmentation on sensitive and delicate skin.
• La Roche-Posay Effaclar Serum ($41.17). Salicylic and glycolic acids and niacinamide help fade the marks pimples leave behind.

“A lot of people get sensitive skin by irritating it with the wrong products and potent ingredients that aren’t suited for their skin,” says Dr Eleni Yiasemides. “If you don’t have a nice, intact skin barrier, you’re more likely to get irritated by chemicals and [even] things like water temperature.” The first step to calming skin? “A really good cleanser that’s gentle and soap-free will mean your skin will be able to better tolerate active ingredients.”

Moisture is also important. “A moisturiser will protect, repair and actually serve to improve the barrier of the skin, making it more tolerant to key ingredients,” says Yiasemides. And the results are fast: “It usually takes one to two weeks to recover” from an irritation or allergy, says Yiasemides. “It could be as simple as stopping the irritant.” 

Try:

• CeraVe Hydrating Cream-to-Foam Cleanser ($38.90). Cleanse and hydrate without disrupting your skin barrier with this super calming cleanser.
• Skinceuticals Phyto Corrective Essence Mist ($89). Use day and night to calm redness and brighten skin. 

As far as skin gripes go, pigmentation is right up there. “Sun exposure and inflammation can increase melanin production, which causes dark spots, discolouration and, of course, ageing,” says Sunday Riley, founder of the eponymous skincare line, who recommends putting lactic and glycolic acids, retinoids and vitamin C on your radar.

Try:

• Estée Lauder Perfectionist Pro Rapid Brightening Treatment with Ferment3 + Vitamin C ($135). This can brighten spots and prevent new ones forming.
• Sunday Riley C.E.O. Glow Vitamin C Turmeric Face Oil ($61). This advanced oil brightens skin and helps to fade dark spots. 

Skin feeling dull and lifeless? A chemical exfoliant is the gentle way to give your complexion a radiance boost. “As we age, our cell turnover slows down, resulting in a build-up of dead cells, congestion and a dull, lacklustre complexion,” says Chanel facialist Melanie Grant, who has tended to the faces of Victoria Beckham, Cate Blanchett, Phoebe Tonkin and Lara Worthington.

“AHAs are a great alternative to physical exfoliants as they allow for daily use and are perfect for sensitive skins,” says Grant, who suggests lactic acid, especially if you’re just starting out. “It’s great for boosting hydration and brightening skin tone,” she says. Grant also recommends applying AHAs every second or third night to start with. “Then gradually increase to daily,” she says. “Also avoid layering too many active products, and incorporate restorative, nourishing ingredients to balance the skin.” 

Try:

• Chanel Hydra Beauty Camellia Glow Concentrate ($129). Hydrate and refine with this gentle exfoliator. 

Text: Bauer Syndication

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