Makeup that enhances a wearer’s natural beauty has been the trend lately. Many of us are ditching the full-on glam look for a more subtle but radiant finish. We want to look like ourselves, just better and not like we are sleep deprived.
With this trend, which is called “skinmalism”, lightweight tints have taken over the spot that was once ruled by heavy foundations. So it makes sense that the same would apply to the rest of our makeup.
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If you have seen Korean star MAMAMOO’s Hwasa’s contour game, it is a soft but effective definition of the cheekbones to make them pop. They still look snatched, just without the streaks, smudges, and muddy finishes that we are familiar with. Three makeup artists have positive views on such a method.
“I think people have finally realised that the old way of sculpting is too harsh and creates unsightly lines and patches, instead of defining the features,” says makeup artist Melissa Yeo.
Makeup artist Marie Soh believes that the “soft sculpting” movement is an understandable response to the exaggerated versions of the technique that we’ve seen all over Instagram, as we’re in the age of authenticity. “The social view of makeup has changed. There is no right or wrong. It’s about embracing your uniqueness and looking like yourself.”
This technique is all about “working with the face to create proportions” and “not seeing the obvious outlines on the face”, according to makeup artist Larry Yeo.
If you want to get Hwasa’s sculpted look without making it obvious that you contoured your face, we spoke to experts to tell you how.
USE THE RIGHT TOOLS
The experts agree that besides picking the right shade, the key to nailing that subtle, diffused soft- sculpted look is blending. Even if you were a little too heavy-handed with your bronzer, blending it with an angled brush or sponge can help rein it in. “Always blend any harsh edges. To soften the look, try blending with loose powder,” advises Melissa. “To blend, I use an angled contour blush, but a powder brush (with its bristles pinched flat) or small eyeshadow blending brush works just as well,” adds Marie.
USE LESS PRODUCT
Another rule of thumb? Start with less product, and build up if needed. You can always intensify your shaded areas, but removing heavy-handed product is much trickier. Besides, using too much product can emphasise texture in skin.
PICK THE RIGHT SHADE
The pros agree that the biggest key to contouring success is the shade you choose. For those with lighter complexions, Larry recommends a foundation shade or contour with a taupe mauve wash. The best shade for those with light to medium skin tones is a neutral taupe with a hint of grey. Olive complexions can opt for a deeper, warmer shade to create depth. “Rich, deeper skin tones might not need sculpting. Instead, incorporate a lighter foundation to highlight and accentuate the features,” he adds.
Below are some product recommendations.
A light neutral taupe bronzer that mimics the look of a real shadow. Available at Sephora.
Think of this matte lipstick as the Swiss Army knife of your beauty routine – it adds colour to your lips, cheeks, eyelids, and even contours your face. Just be sure to blend it well! Available at Sephora.
This concealer comes in a variety of shades to ensure that your contour doesn’t look ashy. Available at Sephora.
A bronzer with lots of warmth and depth, so your contour never looks grey. Available at Sephora.
THE REST OF YOUR MAKEUP
The experts agree that a soft sculpted complexion works with just about any makeup look. You can keep the rest of your makeup light and minimal, or sport a smokey sultry look. “Since shaping the face helps with evening out proportions, it should form the basis of your makeup, before you apply any coloured products,” says Larry.
LIGHTING IS KEY
Another thing to consider is lighting. What appears well-blended in bad lighting might actually be harsh and blotchy in natural light. That’s why you need to buff your contour in a well-lit area. “Do your makeup facing natural light, and not at an angle,” advises Marie. Larry is of the same mind in his approach, prioritising what looks best in the real world. “Stop being so hard-handed like you exist on Instagram. If you overdo your contour, you’re no better than a baked item at a deli!”
While technically a foundation, this matte formula does double duty to perfect your complexion and create depth. Apply with a MAC #135S brush to the hollows of your cheeks. Available at Sephora.
WORK WITH WHAT YOU HAVE, NOT AGAINST
Like most makeup techniques, not all the rules of contouring are universal. It’s important to keep your face shape in mind. “Soft sculpting is about understanding your own features and defining the right parts of your face. For instance, if you already have hollow cheeks, there is no need to enhance it further,” says Melissa.
So, how can you tell if you’ve mastered the art of soft sculpting? “Your contour should still be visible, but it shouldn’t look like you leaned against a rusty metal pole that left a stain on your face,” says Larry. We couldn’t have said it better ourselves.
BRING LIGHT BACK INTO YOUR FACE
Once you’ve skilfully sculpted your face, it’s time to bring light back to it with a highlighter. Well-placed highlights can give your skin that coveted lit-from-within glow. To add just the right amount of sheen, Melissa suggests using Cle De Peau Luminizing Face Enhancer on the brow bones, inner corners of the eyes, above the cheekbones, bridge of nose, and on the Cupid’s bow.
ADD A POP OF COLOUR TO THE CHEEKS
“Fake a natural flush by adding some blush on the cheeks. Blush helps to soften any harsh edges and lift the cheek area,” explains Melissa, who always likes to incorporate blush into the contour equation. She prefers using a powder-based formula that is less likely to slip around in humid weather.
Below are some blush and highlighter recommendations.
The antithesis of a chalky powder blusher, this cult favourite is formulated with an oil-based agent to impart a silky-soft glow to skin. Available at Decorte Ion, BHG Bugis Junction, Isetan Katong, Isetan Scotts, Metro Paragon and Takashimaya D.S.
Formulated with an innovative light-diffusing technology, this luxurious powder highlighter delivers radiance without feeling sticky or looking greasy. Available at Tangs.
Text by: Letty Seah/HerWorld