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Eating Out

A Guide To The Buzziest Restaurants In London

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Eating Out

A Guide To The Buzziest Restaurants In London

From modern British to cutting-edge regional cuisine, the British capital has a dizzying array of culinary cultures

October 4, 2022

Instagram/marksman_pub, ikoyi_london, amazonicolondon

People around the world have long made fun of British food, calling it “tasteless”, “overcooked”, and “swimming in gravy”. But any visit to the nation’s capital, London, will prove these perceptions are woefully out of date.

Modern British food is joyful and creative, taking inspiration from the diverse food cultures. British cuisine reflects the UK’s multicultural present and, for better or worse, its imperial past. However, unlike styles such as the nouvelle cuisine of 1970s and 1980s France, or the New Nordic movement of the 2000s, Modern British has never been defined.

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Instead, there are restaurants that loosely adhere to the philosophy of using seasonal and local ingredients, excellent fresh produce, a relatively minimalist approach, and dishes based on traditional British food but reinvented — often with international influences in cooking technique or ingredients.

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A Guide To The Buzziest Restaurants In London
British food re-invented with international influences
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London restaurants ranging from one-Michelin-starred Lyle’s to gastropub Marksman Public House and old-school dining room Rochelle Canteen exemplify the category.

The kitchens are more or less inventive and international. Innovative two-Michelin-starred The Clove Club, 35th in the 2022 World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards that took place in London in July, for example, draws heavily on Japanese cuisine, whereas unassuming 40 Maltby Street has a distinctly French vibe.

Much of what is considered British food today is derivative of St. John, opened in 1994 by chef Fergus Henderson and sommelier Trevor Gulliver, with a pared-back style and a nose-to-tail ethos. The impact of Henderson’s cuisine and kitchen practice at home and internationally is undeniable, and the long list of chefs that have worked in his kitchen over the years continues to leave a legacy across the city and beyond.

St. John
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Gulliver has watched the city evolve over the last few decades, not only through British food, but also through a “wonderful range of cuisines of the highest standards”.

“London has transformed into a destination for foodies,” he says. “It has become simply one of the best, and certainly the most diverse, of all the great cities for culinary experience.”

London offers a thrilling variety of restaurants, from street stalls to world-famous fine-dining restaurants by TV favourite Gordon Ramsay and molecular gastronomy maverick Heston Blumenthal, whose scientific innovations are used daily in kitchens around the world.

St. John
An exhilarating melting pot of food culture, from India to Latin America
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The city offers food from almost everywhere on the planet, from Afghanistan to Zanzibar, and not only in the form of authentic restaurants that appeal to diaspora residents from all over the world.

Many regional cuisines also have restaurants in London that are playfully innovating with their traditions. At Akoko, Nigerian-born owner Aji Akokomi and British Executive Chef Theo Clench lend a contemporary fine-dining spin to West African recipes.

At Ikoyi, Chinese-Canadian chef Jeremy Chan and Nigerian-born Iré Hassan-Odukale offer cuisine that defies categorisation with an exhilarating mix of ingredients and techniques from Britain, West Africa, Japan, Scandinavia and beyond. Chan cooks with “no cultural barometer” at his restaurant, now 49th on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list.

Maureen M E Vans/Ikoyi
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Indian food is well-loved across the UK, and London has a plethora of options, from hole-in-the wall eateries specialising in a particular dishes to Michelin-starred pan-Indian restaurants. At newcomer BiBi, the modern focus on provenance is brought to Indian food. Even the menu includes a map of the sources of certain ingredients.

Latin American options in the city include Kol, a contemporary Mexican restaurant from chef Santiago Las that champions wild food and seasonality, and recently earned a Michelin star. The trendy Amazonico has hosted guest chefs such as Manoella Buffara of Manu in Brazil, while Alberto Landgraf of Oteque in Rio de Janeiro, 47th on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, has just announced that he will be opening a London outpost.

Maureen M E Vans/Ikoyi
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Middle Eastern cuisine is also well represented and gets a contemporary treatment at Mangal 2, where brothers Ferhat and Sertaç Dirik are creating a new definition of what it means to be cooking modern Turkish food.

“London is constantly developing, with new folk and new ideas always keeping things moving,” says Gulliver. “Not to the detriment, but to the development of our food scene. There’s a freedom and a willingness among its residents and visitors to try the new and enjoy what’s already here that has stood the test of time.”

Four Seasons Ten Trinity
A celebration of Chinese cuisine
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A. Wong, the first Chinese restaurant outside of Asia to earn two Michelin stars, is testament to both history and new ideas.

Chef-owner Andrew Wong opened it in 2012 on the same site his parents’ had occupied for years before. He brought a contemporary approach to regional Chinese, and introduced the city to flavours and dishes that were virtually unheard of in the UK.

“Our first Michelin star felt personal, a recognition for the team. But I felt that the second star was for our community, the three generations of Chinese immigrants who have run restaurants here in London. They’re the reason we’re where we are today,” says Wong.

The city abounds with Chinese restaurants, especially around Chinatown and SoHo, offering a broad range of regions and specialities, ranging from bao to hand-pulled, wheat flour-based biang biang noodles.

Thai cuisine is also particularly vibrant at the moment in London, with chef Lukie Farrell’s Plaza Khao Gaeng the talk of the town. The British chef spent 15 years in Thailand and grows his own indigenous Thai ingredients for his Southern Thai dishes in a tropical greenhouse in rural Dorset. He will soon open Speedboat Bar, modelled on the neon-lit restaurants of Bangkok’s Chinatown.

Jut Ta Klee/James Gillies/A. Wong
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London’s multicultural dining scene is also being celebrated at the Four Seasons Ten Trinity, which marks 100 years since the lavish Beaux-Arts-style building was constructed.

A special moveable feast, which runs to the end of 2022, starts with champagne on a terrace overlooking the Tower of London, before moving through Chinese and Japanese restaurant Mei Ume and the usually off-limits Château Latour Discovery Room for a rare wine tasting.

Guests also sample dishes at two- Michelin-starred La Dame De Pic London, helmed by the most decorated female chef in the world, Anne-Sophie Pic. The menu includes Pic’s exquisite signature berlingots — delicate pasta pyramids stuffed with cheese and served in a spring pea dashi infused with sweet clover.

Jérôme Gall and Hélène Darroze At The Connaught
The rise of female chefs in London
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While London is still dominated, as are most cities, by male chefs, there is an increasing number of female chefs putting their stamp on the dining scene. Clare Smyth, who was the first female chef in the UK to hold and retain three Michelin stars at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, and who won The World’s Best Female Chef 2018 title, helms Core, a seasonal British hotspot.

French maestro Hélène Darroze has a three-Michelin-starred outpost at The Connaught hotel serving her elegantly whimsical and sunny dishes with finesse.

Another female chef — this time from the pastry kitchen — is making her mark on London. Singapore native Cherish Finden is Executive Pastry Chef at Pan Pacific London, which opened last year as the first outpost of the hotel chain in Europe.

Jérôme Gall and Hélène Darroze At The Connaught
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The Bake Off: The Professionals judge has also just launched her own patisserie at the hotel. Called Shiok!, it showcases her Singapore-inspired pastry items, including Apple Tin, which draws on childhood memories of eating canned lychee and longan.

Through her two decades in London, Finden says she has seen the dining scene become increasingly adventurous and sophisticated. Her Asian-inspired desserts at Pan Pacific have been well received, with even less well-known Asian flavours, such as pandan, being popular.

SHIOK!
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Creating her Singapore-inspired desserts feels like “coming home” to her: “I want to tell my story, bring what is me to the plate,” she says. “I want to set the trend, not follow it.”

London’s openness to the untried and untested has allowed for diverse culinary stories to be told — of tradition and innovation, and from cultures across the globe.

“Nowadays, chefs and restaurateurs have the confidence, we hope, to do things their way, stay true to what their aims and intentions are and, most importantly, enjoy it,” says Gulliver. “All things are possible here.”

Text: Victoria Burrows/The Peak

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Jut Ta Klee/James Gillies/A. Wong
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