Japanese celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa is a seasoned globetrotter. The 73-year-old helms more than 50 Nobu restaurants that serve his trademark Japanese-Peruvian cuisine since the chain started in New York in 1994 as a partnership with Hollywood actor Robert De Niro.
Nobu opened its Singapore outpost in June this year at the Four Seasons Hotel. Last month, Matsuhisa was in town to helm an omakase dinner and squeezed in a trip to Kuala Lumpur, where he has an outlet, before flying back to cook at the Formula One Singapore Grand Prix.
Being a frequent flyer has become second nature to Matsuhisa, who shared with The Peak that he used to visit Los Angeles, London and New York on the same day. He took transatlantic flights on the Concorde, shuttling between his restaurants to check the consistency of his dishes and chat with customers.
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Recalling his whirlwind itinerary, he says with a chuckle: “After working in London, I would catch the morning flight to New York, arrive for lunch and leave for Los Angeles in the afternoon. I never thought about being tired. Having jet lag is very normal for me.”
Like Matsuhisa, the Nobu empire, which also comprises hotels in more than 10 cities, is showing no signs of slowing down. Upcoming restaurants in Atlanta and Atlantic City in the United States are slated to open later this year, and an expansion to Thailand and Vietnam is in the pipeline. Last year, Nobu Hospitality, the global lifestyle brand co-founded by Matsuhisa announced a partnership with Asset World Corp, a Thai lifestyle real estate group to open multiple Nobu hotels and restaurants, include Nobu Bangkok in Empire Tower.
Share with us the concept behind the Chilean sea bass with spicy cilantro sauce, which is a Singapore-exclusive dish in your restaurant.
I make a vegetable paste from the leftover parts of onions, leeks, broccoli and cilantro, such as the stem and skin as I don’t want to waste anything. I blend the paste with ginger, garlic and chilli. The enzymes in the vegetable paste helps soften the fish that it is marinated for a few hours, before the fish is grilled. And Chinese cuisine has some spicy elements.
How do you craft your dishes?
The basic concept of my food has five flavour elements: sweet, salty, sour, bitter and umami. I do not like to use a complicated mixture of ingredients. I get inspiration for new dishes in the “Now” section of the menu from my trips to other countries. I also check out the markets, restaurants and cookbooks. I would buy some of the local ingredients and start cooking them in my kitchen and experiment with different versions of the dish through discussions with chefs in my restaurants.
You are one of the world’s most famous sushi chefs, what do you enjoy most from sushi-making?
Making sushi is like taking a piano lesson — the fingers move more easily after taking many lessons and it gets easier with practice. Making sushi is very detailed and only requires the use of a sharp knife. The process is something that is very simple, which means that it can be difficult — from ensuring the freshness of the fish and rice, the right amount of wasabi in the rice that kills the bacteria in the fish to the right amount of pressure to apply on the rice.
One of your darkest periods was when your restaurant in Alaska burnt down in the 1970s. What did you learn from this episode?
It showed me the importance of family, which saved my life. After the restaurant burnt down, I stayed home and was thinking how I could kill myself quickly. One day, I heard my daughter screaming while she was playing. The scream woke me up and reminded me that I still have a family. I told myself that I need to restart and take things step by step — even if it is just moving one millimetre at a time. I am here today because of this experience. I live day by day and in the moment. At the end of the day, I am thankful for everything and go to bed happy.
Why do your signature dishes such as black cod miso and yellowtail jalapeno have remained popular over the past two decades?
I made a mistake of not trademarking them (laughs). I am proud of creating these dishes that have inspired the world. The Nobu style of food is simple and uses the best ingredients. I am always looking for simple cooking and presentation, and showcasing clean flavours.
What’s your top advice for chefs on having a long career?
A chef’s life has a lot of potential to grow. If you are starting out, just do it — take in a lot of experience and don’t fret about making mistakes. Smart people learn from their mistakes. You might hit some walls, but don’t give up. Cooking techniques are important, but so is cooking with heart.
What is your secret to running a successful global restaurant empire?
Nobu’s success doesn’t only lie with me, it lies in having a strong team. Some of my core team members have been with me for a long time and have grown with the restaurant group. Take Hiro Tahara, Chief Operating Officer of Nobu Hospitality for example. He has been with the company for more than 25 years. He started out as a waiter before getting promoted to restaurant captain, assistant manager and general manager. The core members of my team are familiar with the “Nobu experience”. I used to be more involved, but I take a more backseat approach these days. I trust them as they understand what the Nobu quality of food and service is about, and they can teach that to the next generation of team members.
Find out more: Nobu Singapore
Text: Kenneth SZ Goh/The Peak