The Chinese luxury lifestyle label Shanghai Tang has been at work giving itself a refresh. To wit: earlier this year, the brand launched an exciting new collaboration with Korean designer Yuni Ahn, who’s got a truly impressive CV. She was the former creative director of Maison Kitsune, design director of Philo-era Celine, and even worked before at brands like Stella McCartney, Chloe and Miu Miu.
One of Ahn’s key inspirations was the 1994 Wong Kar Wai film Chungking Express. The designer, who lived in Hong Kong in the ’90s, took the film’s female heroines as a muse, drawing from them a sense of cinematic magnetism, and their spirit of modern independence.
There’s also a rather women-centric slant to Ahn’s smart designs. To develop this collection, she reportedly spoke with modern Chinese women to understand what they desired from fashion. The insights she gained are as simple as they are obvious: women want quite simply look confident and express a cool attitude.
The leather North South tote in all black is an enduring example of a stylish, well-made bag that can fit everyday essentials and more.
That explains the understated and sharply-cut pieces of this collection. Think louche tailoring and lightweight layers in sumptuous silks, cottons and wools cut perfectly for a contemporary working wardrobe. And because this is Shanghai Tang, there are naturally Chinese symbols and motifs woven into the designs. Ahn, on her part, used a lighter hand to lend them a more contemporary, and artistic look.
What’s really exciting though, are the new bags that Ahn has designed for the brand. There are two key styles: the newly-launched Fortune Cookie and a line of sophisticated leather totes. The former offers a fashion-forward edge to an everyday bag, while the latter adds a touch of chic to a business-friendly style.
Below, a closer look at the Fortune Cookie and tote bags.
The mini Fortune Cookie bag measures in at a length of 26cm and width of 18.5cm, making it handily sized to house going-out essentials.
This jacquard iteration sports a contemporary evolution of a classic Chinese lattice pattern. You can also spot a bamboo detail buckle and chain throughout the line.
The Fortune Cookie bags are constructed from two main compartments, zipped in the back and a slip opening in the front. Taking inspiration from the lucky messages of actual fortune cookies, the front compartment can also be lifted up to reveal a hidden and embedded card slot.
If you need more carrying space, consider the larger option which is 38cm long and 27cm wide. The adjustable strap also means you can carry this bag on the shoulder or crossbody.
There’s also a removable short strap that adds the option of carrying it by the top handle. Putting the strap on also pinches the ends of the bag closer together, accentuating the curved shape from which the Fortune Cookie takes its name.
All the bags in this collection are made in Italy from calfskin. The horizontal versions are sized at 34.5cm long, 14cm wide and 27cm deep – spacious enough to house even larger laptops.
A detail for the keen-eyed: the hardware on the adjustable shoulder straps are designed to look like bamboo.
All the Yuni Ahn-designed totes are equipped with four interior pockets, one on each side of the bag. When viewed from above, they’re meant to evoke the circular form and square cutouts of traditional Chinese copper coins.
The vertical North South totes come in three versions, each at a length of 33.5cm, width of 9cm and height of 35cm.
Two of the pockets in the canvas version feature a contrasting interior. On the inside, there’s also a zipped pocket and a bamboo print patch.
The lattice pattern is one of Ahn’s key graphic prints in her collection for Shanghai Tang.
Here on this North South tote, the pattern is given the space it needs to shine.
And even though these totes are understated in style, you can find a subtle embossed moon detail on the underside of the bags. These, according to the brand, are meant to represent Chinese blessings of purity and unity – a little secret to know and keep.
To get an in-person look at these new bags, visit Shanghai Tang’s boutiques at #B2M-232 The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands (tel: 6688-7181) and#01‑27A Raffles City Shopping Centre (tel: 6338-6628)
Text: Gordon Ng/FEMALE