The Ideal Exfoliators For Every Skin Type
And exactly how often you need to use them
By Smita DeSouza -
If smooth, clear, radiant skin is high on your list of skin goals this year, you need to add an exfoliator to your skincare routine, stat. Recently however, exfoliating products have garnered a bad rep for destroying the skin barrier and leaving skin raw and sensitised. So how do you know which exfoliator is for you? Read on to find out.
Why you need to exfoliate your skin
Our skin is a wonderful regenerative organ and is constantly shedding dead skin and replacing it with new skin cells. As we grow older the skin cell turnover slows down and the skin holds on to the dead skin for longer. Over time this causes the skin to look dull and feel rough. Exfoliators help to gently remove this dead skin to reveal brighter, smoother skin. Regularly exfoliating your skin can help tackle some types of dark spots and help you achieve radiant, even toned skin. Plus, with the dead skin out of the way, your skin is better able to absorb the rest of your skincare.
How often should you exfoliate your skin?
Depending on your skin type and condition, it’s best to exfoliate your skin two to three times a week. Most people fall into two categories: those that don’t exfoliate enough or those who exfoliate too often. If you exfoliate your skin too much it leads to a compromised skin barrier and sensitised skin, not enough and you are looking at a dull and rough complexion. The key is to start slowly, see how your skin responds to the exfoliator and slowly work towards using it two to three times a week at night.
Different types of exfoliators
Exfoliators are broadly classified into three categories: mechanical, physical and chemical. Mechanical exfoliators include exfoliating brushes and other devices that help gently buff away dead skin. Products that use granules or textured bits that help gently scrub away dead skin are known as physical exfoliators while those that dissolve stubborn bonds between skin cells to lift away dead skin with ingredients like alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acid fall under the category of chemical exfoliators.
Using your exfoliator at the end of the day, after cleansing your face ensures that along with sloughing off dead skin, you’re also removing any impurities. Plus, chemical exfoliators can increase photosensitivity, so it’s best to use them at night. Remember to slather on your sunscreen the next day no matter what type of exfoliator you’re using. Now that you’re familiar with the different types of exfoliators, here’s one for each skin type and condition.
Dry skin
Chemical exfoliation works best for this skin type that can often get flaky and look dull. Look for a product like the Philosophy Micro Delivery Resurfacing Solution, $70 that has a blend of alpha hydroxy acids to lift away dead skin while a cocktail of niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, cica and peptides replenish and condition skin so it doesn’t feel tight and uncomfortable.
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Oily skin
Easy does it when it comes to exfoliating oily skin. Resist the urge to scrub off the excess sebum and pick a chemical exfoliator like the Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant, $52, instead. Salicylic acid, a beta hydroxy acid, goes deep into pores to help remove any sebum and build up while also exfoliating dead skin. Result: your skin is clear and even toned, with fewer chances of breaking out.
Combination skin
Whether you’re normal to dry or normal to oily, an exfoliator that combines both physical and chemical exfoliation will work best. Pick one like the Sephora Collection Brightening Dual Exfoliator, $25 that uses a combination of pomegranate enzymes along with bamboo stem powder to carefully remove dead skin without any irritation.
Sensitive skin
Does your skin get red and angry if you as much as look at an exfoliator? Opt for a chemical exfoliator with mandelic acid, which is an extremely gentle alpha hydroxy acid. Patch test the product before you use it all over your face, and start with exfoliating only one night a week to gauge how your skin responds. The Purposeful Skincare by Allies (PSA) Heroine Mandelic & Licorice Superfood Glow Toner, $52 is a blend of mandelic and lactic acids that remove dead skin while licorice, kombucha and centella asiatica soothe and calm skin.
Mature skin
People with mature skin have extremely slow skin cell turnover, but also need to address dryness, fine lines and wrinkles. A glycolic acid exfoliator like the Mario Badescu Glycolic Acid Toner, $35 can help tackle all these concerns. Not only does glycolic acid help dissolve dead skin, it also promotes collagen production to soften the look of lines and helps reverse sun damage. It has a smaller molecule that is able to penetrate the skin better, but this also increases the risk of irritation. It’s best to start low (potency) and slow with this one.
Sensitised skin
The only time you need to exfoliate sensitised skin is when it is flaky and peeling, because you cannot let the dead skin just sit there. In this case a chemical exfoliator will only cause further irritation, so you need to opt for a gentle enzyme scrub like the Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant, $112. It’s got papaya enzymes and salicylic acid that slough off dead skin and keep pores clear; phytic acid from rice bran helps brighten skin and colloidal oatmeal skin keeps skin calm and soothed. Ignore the name, and only use it one time a week till your skin is healed.
Normal skin
Don’t ruin a good thing by over exfoliating or scrubbing your skin. Using a chemical exfoliator like the Dr Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel, $155 a couple of times a week is ideal for your skin type. It is a two step exfoliator that effectively takes off dead skin with a potent blend of five alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids in the first step and the second step neutralises while delivering hydrating and anti-ageing actives. Skin is smoother, brighter and less likely to experience clogged pores.