PDRN Is The Latest K-Beauty Trend — And It's Made From Salmon Sperm
Skin repair and regeneration, reduced inflammation, smoother texture — can this buzzy skincare ingredient really deliver?
By Vanessa Chia -
K-beauty enthusiasts will know that one of the biggest buzzwords in the K-beauty scene these days is “PDRN”. Besides being used in aesthetic treatments — Rejuran skin boosters, anyone? — this active ingredient is also taking over the K-skincare world.
But how does PDRN fare in skincare application? Can we achieve similar results to our favourite skin booster procedure by using it?
The Benefits of PDRN
Short for polydeoxyribonucleotide, PDRN consists of DNA fragments with different molecular weights, extracted from salmon trout or chum salmon sperm cells, explains Dr Lee Hwee Chyen, medical director and consultant dermatologist, Epi Dermatology & Laser Specialist Clinic.
According to Dr Isabelle Yeoh, medical director of IYAC Aesthetic Clinic, it has been used in medicine to heal wounds and repair tissues for over 20 years. It works by boosting blood circulation, delivering oxygen and nutrients to the skin while stimulating collagen production, which is essential for a youthful-looking complexion.
In addition, it also helps reduce inflammation, creating an optimal environment for skin repair and regeneration.
“Initially, PDRN was used to treat chronic wounds like diabetic ulcers, as well as for skin grafts, joint injuries and post-surgery recovery,” explains Dr Yeoh.
Today, it is used in aesthetics as injectable treatments that target the deeper layers of the skin for repair and rejuvenation and needle-free facials to enhance hydration and radiance.
And it does so by blocking certain enzymes and gene expressions responsible for pigment formation, making it effective against hyperpigmentation issues as well, says Dr Lee.
But that’s not all. A recent study also showed that combining PDRN with vitamin C and niacinamide, delivered via microneedling, can effectively reduce skin hyperpigmentation and enhance elasticity, says Dr Lee.
PDRN In Skincare
So do these benefits of PDRN hold true when applied to the skin in a product as well?
It has amazing benefits for the skin backed by scientific studies, says Dr Lee. And clinical studies have also shown PDRN to be safe and non-toxic, making it a good skincare ingredient.
With the right formulation and delivery, PDRN skincare can offer many benefits to the skin, similar to what you might expect from PDRN skin boosters, especially in improving skin hydration, texture and resilience.
Essences, serums and masks make good skincare options as “they are often designed for better absorption and targeted application”, advises Dr Yeoh.
Meanwhile, Dr Lee recommends choosing a product with a stable and effective concentration of PDRN. She adds that “combining PDRN skincare products with other evidence-based skincare ingredients can also help to provide synergistic effects to suit your skincare needs”.
To this, Dr Yeoh suggests pairing PDRN with hydrating and anti-inflammatory ingredients like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide or ceramides to enhance its soothing and reparative effects while being cautious about mixing PDRN with harsh actives like AHAs, BHAs or retinoids as these can irritate sensitive skins.
Is Plant-Derived PDRN As Effective?
For those looking for vegan alternatives, some beauty brands have also begun utilising plant-based PDRN actives in their products.
“Plant-based PDRN offers a more sustainable alternative to animal-derived versions, reducing environmental impact and animal welfare by reducing indiscriminate fishing or hunting while providing similar benefits,” says Dr Lee.
Ginseng and green tea are common alternatives.
Already known in the skincare scene for their medicinal, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and healing properties, Dr Lee shares that these actives “show promise in ‘phytoPDRN’ formulations”.
However, research on plant-derived PDRN is still somewhat limited. And the studies done have shown that plant-based PDRN “generally has a lower DNA content compared to salmon-derived PDRN”, says Dr Yeoh.
Thus “while botanical PDRN shows potential, salmon-derived PDRN is considered the benchmark due to its close resemblance to human DNA, which ensures a high degree of compatibility with our cellular functions”, adds Dr Yeoh.
In short, the results achieved may be limited.
PDRN Eye Drops As Skincare Alternative: A Fad Or Something More?
If you’ve been scrolling through social media, you would probably also have seen content creators talking about using PDRN-infused eye drops as a toner or essence in their skincare routine. As tempting as it sounds, don’t go rushing to stock up on them on your next trip to Seoul, say both Drs Lee and Yeoh.
“These eye drops are designed with PDRN of specific molecular weights to enhance absorption and penetration, making them effective for promoting corneal healing, tissue repair and reducing inflammation or dryness,” explains Dr Lee.
And while their concentrated formula may benefit skin repair, remember that these drops are specifically made for the eyes and the delicate skin around them, not the rest of the face, especially if you have sensitive skin, Dr Lee adds.
Furthermore, eye drops often contain preservatives, stabilisers or other ingredients to maintain sterility and shelf life. So while these are safe for the eyes, they could potentially irritate or disrupt the skin barrier, especially with prolonged use, shares Dr Yeoh.
But for the curious, both doctors advise ensuring that the eye drops come from a reputable source, check the ingredients carefully and do a patch test prior to using to minimise the risk of any adverse reaction.
And always proceed with caution, adds Dr Yeoh. This means limiting application to small areas of the face and avoid using it on sensitive or broken skin.
Suffice to say, the hype around PDRN is real, be it in injectable aesthetic treatments or skincare. The good news: If you’re uncomfortable with in-clinic procedures, PDRN skincare is a great and gentle option to start with. And with more brands jumping onto the PDRN bandwagon, you’ll be spoilt for choice.
This article was first published in Harper’s BAZAAR Singapore.