What Is Epigenetics In Skincare – The Buzzword of Anti-Ageing Right Now
A buzzword among biologists, epigenetics is making waves in skincare and promising faster anti-ageing results
We have good and bad news on the anti-ageing front. The latter is that we don't have a time machine. The good news? We have more control over the way our skin ages than we ever thought possible.
"Within a certain biological capacity, we are able to decide ... how gracefully we age," says Paolo Sassone-Corsi, a professor at the University of California and director of the Center for Epigenetics and Metabolism. "Our DNA is not our destiny."
This is an about-turn. For many years, genetic scientists assumed that our DNA and the way it impacted our life was locked. However, the message now is that behaviour matters.
"We believe that only around 25 per cent of ageing is predetermined by your genes, and 75 per cent or so is influenced by environmental and lifestyle factors," says Sassone-Corsi. That means your diet, stress levels and the skincare in your bathroom cabinet all play a role in how your genes behave.
In its simplest terms, epigenetics studies our ability to switch genes on and off. When it comes to medicine, these breakthroughs are significant for autoimmune disease and some types of cancer. But there are ramifications for skin, as biologists identify the genes responsible for ageing. "The body system is highly programmable," says Sassone-Corsi.
This matters because, as we age, our skin forgets how to act young. The "good" genes that keep skin firm stop working, and the damage-accelerating genes really get their groove on. And while there are many ways skincare ingredients help skin heal, this factor might be one of the most important.
Recently, Estée Lauder reformulated one of their cult products, Advanced Night Repair ($224 for 75ml), to include an epigenetic micro-signalling molecule that was seven years in the making. The switch their "Chronolux" technology flicks back on increases cell renewal and boosts collagen production.
In clinical studies, after three weeks of twice-daily use, 94 per cent of subjects reported their skin's elasticity improved and 84 per cent said their lines appeared diminished. Even better, this gene-signalling technology means the new serum works 25 per cent faster than the current formula.
Bottom line: skincare that can teach our skin how to stop acting its age is worth considering.