It’s no secret that consumers have become a lot more savvy and informed on the world of skincare in recent years. For example, the peak Covid-19 years saw a dip in makeup sales and a surge in skincare. But even pre-pandemic, interest in skincare was already on the rise, thanks to various factors like social media (there are more than 100 million #skincare posts on Instagram) as well as industry-changing players like The Ordinary.
The latter popularised a more transparent approach to the world of skincare when it burst onto the scene in 2016 with its ultra-affordable products (most are priced below $20) that educated customers on the importance of knowing key ingredients and what they could do for your skin. Contrast that to the past, where consumers largely bought into brands’ romantic marketing spiels of some rare magical plant procured in distant lands that supposedly has the power to turn the clock back 20 years.
While The Ordinary’s science-y approach grew customers’ overall skincare knowledge, their products could also be described as largely simplistic formulas built around one key ingredient – which might mean purchasing several different serums to address various skin concerns from dehydration to hyperpigmentation.
Now, with inflation on the rise and a potential global recession teetering on the horizon for 2023, people understandably want to get more out of whatever they do choose to splurge on. Which is where products designed to perform multiple functions stand to shine – they help to streamline one’s skincare routine by combining several steps.
In theory, they help one to save money though that’s not always the case – multitasking products generally require a more layered and sophisticated formula. But one area they definitely help in is time; with more people back to working in the office, time-saving routines (especially in the morning) will definitely be a boon.
Beauty of Joseon has been dominating the K-Beauty space over the past year with its viral Relief Sun sunscreen – but if that model’s dewy-finish wasn’t your cup of tea, the brand has just debuted a new roll-on sunscreen executed in collaboration with the popular cosmetic chemist and esthetician Glow By Ramon.
The Matte Sun Stick was designed with oily-skin types in mind and thus has sebum-controlling properties and as the name says, sports a matte finish. As a roll-on type of sunscreen, this means you can re-apply sunscreen on the go and it’ll double up as a shine-banishing primer.
We’ve been big fans of Chanel’s innovative Nº1 De Chanel skincare and makeup collection since it launched last January for its holistic and pre-emptive approach to the vitality of skin. The hero of the range is of course the Revitalizing Serum.
But if you’re frequently outdoors or travel a lot, its sister product, the Revitalizing Serum-In-Mist, is said to be a good alternative; it’s formulated with the same concentration of red camellia extract as the serum, and further enhanced with red camellia oil and camellia water to deliver hydration while on the move.
The cult skincare label developed by German stem cell professor Augustinus Bader continues its expansion; one of the latest to join its umbrella of TFC8-powered (a proprietary complex described by the company to contain amino acids, high-grade vitamins and a synthesised version of molecules that are naturally found in the body) products is the Eyebrow and Lash Enhancing Serum.
The 2-in-1 serum was designed to fortify one’s hair follicles by promoting the growth of keratin (the key protein that is found in our hair, skin, and nails), using ingredients like biotin, red winter algae, roselle and safflower extracts. The applicator features two sides – one catered for the brows and a thinner one for the eyelashes.
Any self-respecting skincare nerd would have heard of Gothamista (aka Renee Chow) – one of the OG influencers in the game, Chow is well-known for espousing a holistic, hydration-first approach to skincare. Now she’s finally launched what she calls her dream product – an essence in collaboration with indie Korean skincare label Saro de Rue.
Chow says this essence can replace both your toner and serum steps and judging by the stacked ingredient list – a whooping 62 per cent black ginseng extract, four per cent niacinamide and ceramides – it appears to be a hydration-focused workhorse that reportedly strengthens the skin barrier, hydrates, brightens, and increases collagen production.
Homegrown giant Allies of Skin‘s products have a reputation for packing in plenty of top-notch ingredients and the product that best exemplifies this one-and-done approach is the Peptides & Antioxidants Firming Daily Treatment, which is what the brand calls a “five-in-one supercharged moisturiser”.
The moisturiser contains multiple peptides (great for hydration), seven brightening agents, nine antioxidants, and a three per cent teprenone complex that work together to hydrate, firm, refine, provide antioxidant protection, and brighten skin.
One of the buzziest young names in the scene last year was EqualRXN (pronounced Equal Reaction), an independent American label that takes a moderate, skin-respecting approach to skincare.
The product that landed EqualRXN on people’s radar is its viral Oat Milk PHA Serum – if you’re wondering what the PHA stands for, it’s polyhydroxy acid – the latest generation of acid exfoliants. They have similar benefits to the more well-known AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) like glycolic acid – such as removing dead skin cells for (temporarily) smoother and brighter skin – but with one major advantage: they’re far more gentle than their more famous predecessors.
PHAs have a larger molecule size than AHAs, which means they aren’t able to penetrate into the skin as quickly or as deeply as AHAs, but that also means they’re far less likely to irritate the skin. Aside from their mild exfoliating properties, PHAs also double up as humectants (agents that help to retain water in the skin), which is a double-win especially for sensitive-skin types.
All of which means this serum is one that will gently exfoliate your skin for a glowing complexion – while doing its main duties of hydrating and calming down your skin (thanks to the oat milk, which is one of the best anti-inflammatory ingredients out there).
Want to get in on the retinoid train but worried about the notorious irritation that typically accompanies it? Here’s a nifty option designed by popular London-based cosmetic dermatologist Dr Sam Bunting – her Flawless Nightly Serum contains two per cent of the next-generation granactive retinoid (the trade name of a new entrant to the retinoid family called hydroxypinacolone retinoate that is supposedly less irritating).
Not only that, she’s also included multitasking ingredients like niacinamide (10 per cent) and notably, azelaic acid (five per cent). Azelaic acid is one of the most underrated and underreported ingredients but dermatologists love it for its multifunctional abilities to reduce redness and inflammation, even out the skin tone, fight acne and help treat rosacea. Yup, azelaic acid is definitely a powerhouse ingredient that we predict will pick up traction in the coming years.
While it may look like bubble tea, this is actually a bi-phase essence – a product that combines two different types of products into one. Here, an oil layer sits atop the water base, and when you shake up the bottle to mix the two together, the two are integrated into a light, milky emulsion that offers both deep hydration (through the key ingredient of 78 per cent kombucha tea extract) and occlusivity, thanks to the presence of oils like sunflower seed oil. Oily-skin types might not even require a moisturiser after using this – which may be why this fun essence has blown up on social media in recent months.
While the primary function of any sunscreen is to offer (adequate) protection for the skin against UV rays, newer designs now offer an array of functions beyond sun protection. Take Skinceutical’s new Advanced Brightening UV Defense Sunscreen SPF 50, which includes major discoloration-correcting ingredients like tranexamic acid and niacinamide to help treat hyperpigmentation issues. Sunscreen is after all the first line of defence against many skin ageing-related issues but if you can have additional benefits on top of that, why not?
This classic balm is always in our SOS kit for its unparalleled ability to soothe and repair damaged and irritated skin, but it’s recently received an upgrade. The updated balm now comes with a prebiotic complex called Tribioma that’s exclusive to the brand – this complex reportedly rebalances our skin’s microbiome (basically the ecosystem of “good” bacteria that live on the skin and works to guard it against harmful pathogens) when it’s out of whack.
While it’s designed specifically to repair damaged skin, it’s so multipurpose that the brand says it’s suitable for the entire family, including babies. We like to slather it on as a sleeping mask, especially on nights when retinoids or exfoliating acids are in play.
Text: Keng Yang Shuen/Female