An Award-winning Chef's Favourite Food Haunts In Tokyo & Around Japan
Bookmark this page for when Japan resumes unrestricted tourist travel
By Michelle Lee SM -
Now that Japan looks possibly primed to welcome unrestricted tourism (and has already given the go-ahead for non-guided package tours) in the near future, it's not too early to start planning your itinerary if a holiday there is on the agenda.
Not only is the country filled with vibrant sights and culture, but it's also an exciting culinary destination that's developed a reputation for its buzzing food scene. Need recommendations? Chef Michael Ryan, who's the chef-owner of the two hat-awarded Provenance restaurant in Beechworth, North East Victoria, Australia, is one to ask.
The chef is an avid lover of and seasoned visitor to Japan, having travelled to the country over 30 times. He also hosts intimate culinary tours there, which have amalgamated into the Only in Tokyo Only in Tokyo: Two Chefs, 24 hours, The Ultimate Food City chef’s guidebook.
Recently, he was in town for a two-day-only six-hands menu collab with contemporary Japanese Kappo restaurant Oumi located on the 51st storey of CapitaSpring, which showcased his contemporary Australian approach together with Oumi's modern Japanese cuisine.
The Weekly caught up with him to find out more about his must-go foodie haunts in Tokyo and around Japan, hidden gems, and cultural dining norms to note while you're there.
Michael Ryan (MR): Obviously the food is the first and most immediate thing that attracted me to Japan. It's a cuisine with depth and complexity that varies from light and fresh, to much more complex and robust dishes.
I love how all the many small restaurants are hyper-specialised and do things on their own terms. Beyond the food, I particularly love the rural areas of Japan.
MR: Tokyo is a must. A truly international city with a flavour very different to the rest of Japan. Fukuoka, the capital of the southern island, Kyushu, is a fun and friendly city.
Also on Kyushu is Kagoshima, a stunningly beautiful small city with a great urban feel. Kanazawa is definitely worth a visit for its beautiful garden, Kenroku-en, its castles and Museum of Modern Art, and also for the fantastic seafood.
What are some of your top must-go restaurants within Tokyo itself, and outside of Tokyo, and why?
MR: Some of my favourite restaurants in Tokyo are Den, Florilege, Alchimiste, Ahiru Wine Store, Pizza Studio Tamaki, Path, Hakkoku, and my favourite coffee shop, Fuglen.
Other must-go restaurants in Japan include Sushi Nakamato (Osaka), La Cime (Osaka), Fukumatsu Kitaoji (Kyoto), and Cenci (Kyoto).
MR: Japan does not really have street food. It does have great laneways, or yokocho. Tokyo has some great ones – Ebisu Yokocho (Ebisu), Omoide Yokocho (Shinjuku) and Harmonica Yokocho (Kichijoji). True street food however can be found in the yatai, or street stalls of Fukuoka – it is a fun and intimate dining experience.
MR: For Tokyo, there are so many options for casual dining and drinking, such as Delifucious (near Nakameguro Station) for fish burgers and Camelback Sandwich&Espresso for excellent sandwiches. Kaiten sushi, or conveyor belt sushi, can be very good in Japan and cheap.
Some of the best pizza in the world is to be found in Japan. Really, the choices are endless. Then there are the cocktail bars (some of the best in the world), the wine bars, great coffee and so much more. You can get the best of anything in Tokyo. Sometimes you may need to hunt it down, but it is there.
MR: It's so hard to pick one. Sashimi and sushi always. I truly love yakitori and especially love yakitori restaurants for their smoky, fun vibe.
MR: Keep dietary requirements to a minimum if possible. Don’t be late, or early, for bookings. As mentioned, restaurant owners tend to do things on their own terms, so accept their rules.