Retinol's Popular For Its Anti-Ageing Benefits — Here's What To Know Before Using It
Long touted as an effective solution to blemishes, retinol is now a familiar active ingredient in many skincare products in the market. Here’s what you need to know before using it
Retinol has become one of the most popular skincare ingredients around, thanks to its effectiveness in improving issues such as acne and pigmentation. While it used to be a formulation that you could only access via a dermatologist, it’s now commonly available at beauty and skincare stores. Does this mean you should add it to your routine for better skin? The short answer is this: It depends on your skin type.
“Over the past few years, retinol has increased in popularity due to a rising interest in taking better care of one’s skin,” explains Dr Kenneth Thean, founder and medical director of Ensoul Medical Clinic. “Retinol, is a derivative of vitamin A, a nutrient that helps boost cell turnover among its many other properties. It’s a type of retinoid, which is an umbrella term for the family of chemical compounds that are derivatives of vitamin A.
“Based on decades of research, retinoids have been proven effective for treating wrinkles, fine lines, and even acne,” he adds.
Dr. Justin Sii, owner and medical director, SOL Aesthetics, says that the primary function of retinol is to accelerate your skin cells’ turnover and proliferation. This helps exfoliate to bring out fresh, healthy skin.
He states that retinol unclogs pores, improves any acne situation and reduces acne breakouts. It evens out skin tone, improves dark spots and pigmentation, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, and makes skin smoother and more radiant.
Dr Thean advises to incorporate retinol into your daily skincare routine if you’re struggling with acne as it helps to prevent future breakouts. It reduces oil production by interacting with the unique retinoid receptors present in skin cells. This minimises the possibility of clogged pores and thus helps to prevent acne.
Retinol also acts as a gentle exfoliant on your skin. This process removes dead skin while balancing skin tone and smoothing the texture. It also prevents pores from losing moisture, restoring skin’s natural moisture balance.
“When the skin lacks moisture, it tends to produce more oil to compensate, which leads to frequent acne breakouts. Retinol balances hydration levels to prevent the skin from overproducing sebum, which in turn prevents breakouts from taking place,” says Dr Thean.
What if I have sensitive skin?
Retinol can be beneficial for anyone with sensitive skin but it’s important to be aware of the possible side effects. Dr Sii explains that retinol may make sensitive skin redder and more irritated. It also makes skin more sensitive to the sun.
“This is because retinol accelerates skin cell turnover, in a way that removes dead cells quicker than the production of fresh healthy cells on the skin’s surface, making it more ‘raw’, red, and easily irritable,” he says.
So, if you have sensitive skin but still want to benefit from retinol, Dr Sii suggests using sunscreen and moisturising your skin adequately. Or you may want to consider alternative ingredients such as azelaic acid and salicylic acid instead, which are generally more tolerable for people with sensitive skin.
Dr Thean shares that while the common side effects that come with the initial stages of integrating retinol include dryness, peeling and irritation, innovations in new retinol formulations have also made retinol more tolerable for those with sensitive skin.
The ingredient can also prove damaging to skin if you have extremely sensitive underlying skin conditions like eczema or rosacea, as it can cause flare-ups and inflammation. It is also likely to increase skin sensitivity to other products, procedures and exposure to sunlight.
“While over-the-counter forms of retinoids are generally much milder than prescription retinoids, people with sensitive skin are more likely to benefit from using retinol under the advice of a doctor or a skincare professional,” he adds.
A gradual approach is best
Dr Sii also recommends consulting a doctor before you start using retinol or any of the retinoids, whether or not you have sensitive skin. This is so your doctor can assess your skin to decide which type of retinoid ingredient is suitable for your skin and your needs.
And, before you start using retinol for the first time, always test it out with a small amount on a small area of your skin first. Observe the area for two to three days to check if your skin reacts adversely, such as if there’s any excessive redness, itchiness or irritation. If your skin tolerates it well, you may start using retinol as part of your skincare routine.
“Always start off with the less potent retinoid and gradually upgrade to more potent ones if your skin takes it in positively,” says Dr Sii.
Dr Thean suggests using a retinol product once or twice a week to allow your skin to acclimatise to it, as gradually increasing usage minimises side effects.
“Another method to maximise penetration and minimise side effects is to buffer the retinol with a moisturiser,” says Dr Thean. “Mixing retinol with a moisturiser helps the skin adjust to the retinol and also prevents the side effects of dryness and irritation. This also allows the retinol to be gentler on the skin, especially for those with sensitive skin.”
He notes that you should wear sunblock with a minimum SPF30 when going out into the sun if you’re using any form of retinol.
Expert Tips
Start off slow. Use it once every two to three days to begin with. After one to two weeks, gradually increase it to once a day if your skin reacts well, says Dr Sii. He adds that you can consider upgrading to a more potent retinol after three to four months, if your skin allows, to further improve your skin.
Start using retinol in your mid-twenties or early-thirties. The signs of aging may appear as early as during these age groups, and retinol is safe for use for anyone in their mid-twenties looking to boost collagen levels as a preventative measure against signs of aging, says Dr Thean.
“In this regard, it is highly recommended that you incorporate retinol into your skincare regime at an early stage. You will find that it is more difficult and potentially less effective to get your skin to bounce back if you wait to start,” he adds.
Do not scrub your skin while you are using retinol. “Retinol is already doing the work of exfoliating dead skin cells and stimulating cell turnover. Scrubbing and using retinol concurrently increases the risk of skin irritation and redness,” explains Dr Sii.
Use a pea-sized amount. Dr Sii also advises to apply only a thin layer on your skin each time, followed by a non-comedogenic moisturiser.
Monitor the side effects. Certain side effects may occur as your skin adjusts to the active ingredient, including mild irritation, dryness and sun sensitivity. However, you should stop using retinol if intense flaking, redness and burning occurs, says Dr Thean.
Consult a doctor if you are unsure. While over-the-counter retinol products can certainly prove useful for people who are curious about retinoids and want to give them a try, Dr Thean says you should speak to a doctor before beginning any form of retinol treatment if you have sensitive skin or have a specific skin condition – such as active acne – that needs to be addressed.
“Over-the-counter products, for example, may not be effective in treating severe forms of acne because of their milder concentrations,” says Dr Thean. “Skin conditions like acne might require stronger formulations of retinoid treatment. Considering the influx of retinol products on the market, you may be unsure which type is the right one for you. Speaking to a doctor will help you make the right choices based on your skin concerns.”
This lightweight serum combines retinal (the most potent version of the vitamin A derivative), retinol (the slightly less potent version of the vitamin A derivative), plant derived squalane and antioxidants and delivers them deep within the skin via an effective delivery system that releases the goodness of these ingredients over eight hours. This results in visibly softer lines, firmer skin, more even skin tone and smoother texture minus irritation, redness or dryness.
What makes this serum so special is that it is a blend of vitamin A derivatives (retinoid ester and retinol) and botanical retinol-alternative extracts that together are extremely potent, yet gentle on the skin. It’s also got Hawaiian white honey, cactus and ginger extracts to soothe and calm any potential irritation and CoQ10 fights any damage from free radicals.
This rich and silky-smooth serum is ideal for those with dry or sensitive skin looking to incorporate retinol into their routines. A low strength of 0.01% retinol helps gently fight signs of ageing while rich evening primrose and grapeseed oils provide long lasting hydration. Green tea and chamomile calm any redness.
Treat fine lines and wrinkles with this retinol eye cream that has been specially formulated with a slow release delivery system so it’s gentle on the thin skin around the eyes. The eye cream also features ceramides and squalane that keep skin hydrated and calm while boosting the moisture barrier.
Tackle fine lines, rough skin, enlarged pores and uneven skin tone with this serum that offers a higher dose of retinol. This potent strength of retinol is cushioned with the addition of squalene and beta glucan to promote skin resilience and skin barrier strength. This serum is better suited to those who have already used milder versions of retinol.
Trans-retinol and encapsulated retinol boost collagen, smooth texture and fight pigmentation. Rambutan and bakuchiol further boost these antiageing benefits while ferulic acid reduces sun damage and neutralises any irritation.
Encapsulated retinol softens the look of fine lines; avocado oil and avocado extract soothe, hydrate and nourish; coffeeberry de-puffs and brightens skin and niacinamide helps reduce darkness. Gently tap on before bed and wake up to smoother, brighter, firmer skin around the eyes. No eye cream needed.
Lines, wrinkles, crepiness, lax skin, sun damage are all signs of skin ageing that can be effectively addressed with this body cream infused with retinol. It also has acai, which nourishes skin with omega fatty acids, pomegranate extract which is rich in antioxidants and helps improve skin tone. Aminobutyric acid boosts production of collagen and hyaluronic acid in the skin so that it looks plump and firm.
Whether you’re a skincare beginner or a retinol pro, the plant-based retinol in this product will set you on your journey to youthful skin. Ingredients such as bioretinol (Bakuchiol) and a natural peptide (L-Carnosine) boost collagen and target fine lines and wrinkles. Your skin will look rejuvenated, as well as smoother and brighter. The non-irritating treatment is gentle enough for daily use in the daytime – just pat six to eight drops into your skin as the final step in your skincare routine.
This one-stop solution is formulated with pure retinol and is ideal for anyone looking to soothe acne, reduce blemishes or relieve post-acne scars. The ampoule also contains the Jeju Cica Liposomlogy complex, which is an innovative combination of green tea ceramide, centella asiatica and Jeju green soybean hyaluronic acid. This means it’s gentle on your skin but highly effective too. The watery, non-sticky formula hydrates and absorbs quickly into your skin. It’s suitable for all skin types, for day or night use.
Ideal for experienced retinol users who want to take their retinol routine to the next level, this moisturiser combines retinal (the most potent version of retinol) along with antioxidants, peptides, brightening ingredients as well as organic argan and arctic cranberry seed oils, and Indian ginseng to target fine lines, wrinkles, discolouration, smooth texture and stimulate collagen production minus irritation and redness.
Though this serum features pure retinol, it is designed to deliver a precise micro-dose so you can use it daily and get all the best benefits of retinol without any redness, dryness or flaking. The serum also has ceramides that improve the skin’s ability to tolerate retinol and peptides that boost integrity of the skin. The lightweight cream texture is easily and quickly absorbed and is ideal for those who are new to using retinol.
This is ideal for anyone with sensitive skin who doesn’t want to chance a breakout with retinol. Retinol alternatives are gaining popularity and the botanical ingredient here is one you’re probably familiar with, although not as a skincare solution. Research scientists have discovered that rambutan is high in antioxidants and increases skin elasticity by supporting natural collagen synthesis similarly as retinol and bakuchiol. This product contains an exclusive retinol-like blend of antioxidant black tea and rambutan leaf extracts, and results in visibly-reduced wrinkles and increased firmness and elasticity.
This is part of the Laneige Perfect Renew 3X series, an effective skin solution that is customised for women in their mid-twenties to thirties. Get in early to defend your skin against aging to fight issues such as fine lines and wrinkles. The secret to Laneige Perfect Renew 3X Skin Serum’s success is that it’s three types of age-prevention serums capsuled in one. The triple-layered formula consists of RE.D flavonoid, peptides and retinol. The three serums are compartmentalised separately in three chambers, which maximises the stability of each ingredient and stretches its efficiency much longer.
This is a 2-in-1 cream serum with Pro-Retinol (retinol precursor) at 0.3% with a night formula which helps stimulates collagen synthesis and improves cell regeneration. It also fades wrinkles, corrects all types of blemishes and spots, and improves firmness, elasticity, texture, and skin tone.
Text: Balvinder Sandhu/HerWorld