What Is Skin Cycling And How To Get Started
Get the most out of your skin care products by taking it slow
By Terri Kue -
If you want to start using actives, or maybe you've tried them and your skin isn't coping well, you might benefit from a skincare method known as skin cycling. Coined by board-certified dermatologist Dr. Whitney Bowe, skin cycling is when you cycle through the products in your routine.
This means that while you use actives some nights, other nights are to be dedicated to rest and recovery.
Think of it this way: when you exercise, rest days are of utmost importance for your muscle cells to rest and recover. This allows your muscles to grow properly whilst taking it slow and not overdoing it. The same concept applies to skin cycling.
Instead of using your actives such as retinoids, AHAs, and BHAs every day, it is recommended to space them out to let your skin repair its skin barrier. Doing this can help prevent irritation and inflammation.
The most common cycle for skin cycling follows a four-day sequence. The first night will be dedicated to exfoliation (the chemical kind), the second to retinoids, whilst the third and fourth are for recovery. The process repeats itself on the fifth day.
Exfoliation night is when you can use your chemical exfoliants to get rid of dead skin cells on the skin. It comes before retinoid night so that your retinoid can penetrate deeper into your skin the next day.
Dr. Whitney Bowe recommends layering your skincare in this order these nights:
Cleanse with a gentle cleanser
Use your chemical exfoliant on dry skin (products with a blend of acids are recommended)
Moisturise
Products to use for exfoliation night
Below we have gathered some products to use for this juncture of the cycle:
This lightweight chemical exfoliator is a hot favourite on TikTok right now for minimising pores and smoothing the skin. BHA (salicylic acid) gently rids pores of oil and other gunk, giving them a diminished appearance. It's great for sensitive skin as low concentrations of BHA can also work to calm irritated skin.
Best for those with oily skin.
Get it here.
This Cosrx AHA/BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner ($21.90) is another cult favourite. It has a low chemical content which makes it great for those just starting out. It gives skin a glowy finish while being gentle on the skin. You will have to use a cotton pad in order to help the product reach deeper in your skin, so make sure you get one that is thin and soft to help the product work its best.
Get it here.
Looking for a more affordable option? In a 240ml bottle, this product is a stronger exfoliant that is worth every penny. It smoothens fine lines and helps with pigmentation as well. Since this exfoliant is more potent, it is best used by those who have the tolerance for it.
Get it here.
Retinoid night is exactly what it sounds like - the night in the cycle where you whip out your retinoid.
Here's how to layer your products:
Cleanse with a gentle cleanser
Apply a thin layer of light weight moisturiser under the eyes, along your smile line, and by the sides of the mouth. Dr. Whitney Bowe notes that these areas are more prone to irritation. By using a moisturiser over these areas, you create a sort of 'retinoid sandwich' which prevents the retinoid from directly touching your skin. This step is optional
Apply a pea-sized amount of retinoid
Apply a rich moisturising cream
It's important to note that if you are new to retinoids, you may be prone to purging for the first few weeks.
Products to use for retinoid night
Here are products you can choose for this night.
This product is created with encapsulated retinol, meaning that it is released slowly into the skin, making it more gentle than other products. It is great for removing hyperpigmentation due to the presence of licorice root extract to resurface your skin. Niacinamide also helps to calm the skin.
Get it here.
This retinol product has been proven to improve the appearance of fine lines in a week and deep wrinkles in four weeks. Pure retinol and hyaluronic acid work together to repair the skin barrier, hydrating and plumping the skin in the process.
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Reduce fine lines and wrinkles with this product that has been dermatologically tested. It's also great for evening skin tone and lightening dark spots.
Get it here.
As per the name, recovery nights are for your skin to recover from the actives that you use. During the two days, your focus should be on hydration.
Here is how you should layer your skincare products:
Cleanse with a gentle cleanser
Apply a hyaluronic serum to your skin for an extra hydration boost (optional)
Moisturise
Apply an oil (optional as well)
For this night, you can use any type of hydrating moisturiser in your skincare arsenal.
The beauty of the skin cycling method is that you can alter it to suit your skin's needs the most. If you are just starting out using actives, Dr. Whitney Bowe recommends starting with either an exfoliating night or retinoid night, followed by two days of rest days. As you progress and get used to the actives, you can add the other night back to the cycle.
If you have sensitive skin, you can opt for three days of recovery as opposed to two to give your skin more time to recover.
Alternatively, if you are looking to take things up a notch, there are a few things you can do. The first thing you can do is to up the concentration of the products you use. When that is done, you can apply the retinoid directly to your skin and disregard the sandwich method. The last option you can opt for is to drop one recovery night and change it to a three-day cycle instead.