To say that Chinese chef Leung Wing Cheung, who has been in the culinary scene for four decades, is an experienced hand at concocting refined Cantonese dishes might be an understatement.
The 60-year-old was born in Guangdong, China, and cut his teeth as an apprentice to restaurant chefs in Hong Kong in the 60s and 70s. Since arriving in Singapore in 1989, he’s since chalked up years of experience in cooking Cantonese cuisine at various well-known restaurants and five-star hotels here. Now, he’s the Executive Cantonese chef at fine-dining Chinese restaurant Si Chuan Dou Hua at Parkroyal on Kitchener Road, where he’s been based for the past 10 years.
We get him to share tidbits on the essentials of Cantonese cuisine, the key to cooking a good soup, his pantry staples, and how home cooks can be more efficient in the kitchen.
Leung Wing Cheung (LWC): There are many classic Cantonese dishes that require time-consuming traditional skills, hence they are not commonly found in other restaurants. I’m constantly experimenting and delivering the essence of classic Cantonese cuisine with my cooking skills, by displaying the characteristics of each dish when presenting it to my guests.
Dishes that come out of my kitchen has to fulfill these three aspects — they smell, look and taste great (se xiang wei ju quan or 色香味俱全). On top of that, I consciously ensure, as much as possible, what we offer on the menu is healthy. While it’s important to eat healthily, it’s also equally important to eat happily. It is always a pleasure to see diners nod their heads upon their first taste of the dish.
One example will be Exotic Garden with Black Truffle in Osmanthus Sauce. A dish with a story that is as colourful as its looks, this ‘garden’ was made popular as a lo hei must-have over the festive period, and sought-after all year round. Fans are enamoured by the abundance of fresh vegetables accompanied by a medley of truffle oil, black truffle sauce, osmanthus sauce, rice puffs, freeze-dried pineapple as well as cordyceps and black truffle, among others. Then there’s the pièce de résistance of homemade crispy soybean crumbs.
LWC: The Beancurd Medley, Braised Pork Belly in Whole Pumpkin, double-boiled soup and my series of clay pot creations — these dishes are home-style favourites and they are also what my guests return for.
LWC: To me, it’d be authentic flavours. The key characteristic of Cantonese cuisine is to maintain the taste of the ingredients. To do that, it’s important to use the most suitable cooking method, to bring out the original flavour of the ingredients as much as possible.
LWC: Ingredients and fire control. A good soup involves the understanding of ingredients as well as techniques traditionally termed san bao liu dun (三煲六炖).
San bao refers to boiling soup in high heat before simmering for three hours, while liu dun refers to a slower process where a jar of ingredients is placed within an outer pot and left to cook using the heat from the boiling water for about six hours. The latter is often used to make nourishing soups.
LWC: Fresh ingredients are the key. A good understanding of how certain flavour combinations work well eliminates the need for seasoning. For example, fresh fish can be steamed with some ginger, green onions, and a little soy sauce to bring out the nice, sweet flavour of the fish.
LWC: Rice, oil, and salt? Just kidding. You will find a choice of soup, a chicken dish, and seasonal greens in a typical Cantonese meal. I do not have a favourite ingredient. For me, the most important thing is to understand how ingredients blend and complement one another.
For example, one of our clay pot dishes features fried fish belly, which is simmered with roasted pork belly and beancurd skin – they are three rather distinct ingredients, but when we put them together, they are perfect to go with a bowl of rice. It’s also often ordered by diners in the restaurant!
LWC: Have meal plans based on what you like, ingredients based on personal preferences, and what you are familiar with, ready before you cook. Fresh ingredients are important. With simple home cooking techniques, you can deliver quality dishes too.
Si Chuan Dou Hua is at Level 3, Parkroyal on Kitchener Road, 181 Kitchener Road, Singapore 208533. Visit its website for reservations or more information.